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Here, we will show you how to install and seal a standard, straight, closed acrylic bathtub and double faucets, and how to install faucets, bathtub waste, traps and bathtub panels.

There are many other bath designs to choose from, but keep in mind that they may have different accessories requirements, so be sure to check the manufacturer's instructions.

If you are replacing an existing bathtub and the plumbing system needs only minor adjustments, installing a new bathtub will be a fairly simple task.

If the bathtub is newly added, or the position of the bathtub is moving, and the pipeline needs to be diverted, it is better to hire a qualified plumber.

Before starting, remove the protective cover and carefully check the bathtub for signs of damage.

Make sure you have all the necessary parts, accessories and tools before starting the project

Be sure to choose a faucet that matches the pre-drilling of the bathtub.

Some bathtubs have anti-skid functions and bathtub handles, but if your bathtub does not, consider adding some to make it safer to enter and exit the bathtub.

If you plan to install a shower, choose a shower with a flat edge so that the shower screen can form a watertight seal.

We are installing a "closed" bathtub, so don't worry about the floor because it won't be seen. However, if you want to install a separate design, you need to lay the floor of your choice before installing it.

Turn off the water supply system before proceeding with any water pipe project.

It's not necessary, but it's a good idea to cover the bathroom floor with a protective cloth when cleaning the old bathroom.

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Carefully measure and mark all fixed points before drilling

Be careful not to tighten the fixtures too tightly, otherwise the bathtub will be damaged.

Always check the manufacturer's instructions to ensure that you are assembling the bathtub with the right length of screw.

If you need to drill through the tile, stick some tape on the tile to prevent the bit from slipping.

When using silicone sealant, fill the bathtub with water to ensure that the sealant does not fall off the tile when using the bathtub.

At the beginning of the 20th century, when central heating became common in buildings, there was usually only one boiler or hot stove for buildings or houses. The equipment is usually located in the basement or basement. Fuel (coal, wood, fuel oil or natural gas) is brought to this location of the building (and the kitchen as a kitchen area). Fuel is converted into heat in boilers or furnaces and then distributed to radiators or hot air registers through steam or hot water pipes. Condensed steam and cooling water flow back to the boiler through the pipeline, and cooling air enters the furnace through the pipeline. Fuel is cheap, and heat loss in pipes and pipes is not serious.

In warehouses and industrial buildings, there is little or very partial demand for heat. Unit heaters are often used. Fuel gas or oil is usually piped directly to these devices. Figure 1 shows a gas water heater suspended from the ceiling of a maintenance workshop. The gas pipeline is made of black steel. The exhaust pipe is galvanized steel. The power supply to the motor of the unit is a blue steel sleeve cable. Low voltage thermostat cables are white.

Because we live in an area with a long history, we are limited by ARC (Architectural Assessment Committee) in how to deal with exterior wall work. In addition to these requirements, many owners like the appearance of bricks and want to maintain the facade of bricks.

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"I think all the articles of Martin Holladay GBA are very great though they are a great detail to add -- when we frame the new wall masonry building we will pull the brick frame 1", allowing the closure of the wood frame behind the cellular spray foam and the elimination of thermal damage. In order to avoid lamp wick row, the bagged beams must be cut back when transforming the load path into the basement.

Keep on doing great work; can't wait to hear the next episode!

Ian also wrote 184 episodes, and your Gulf e-mail mentions a theme that I believe plays an important role in maintaining the vitality of crafts - how do we train the next generation as mature businessmen in this field? I firmly believe that those of us who work in this field are an important factor in exerting influence. Based on my apprenticeship, I have some suggestions for apprentices.

I call this the Eight Commandments of Ian's Apprenticeship

Nothing can be learned from constant success. Try it, screw it up, think about it, repeat it. In thirty or forty years, retire.

Ask every silly question you think of. Never ask too many questions, however, unless you think carefully about the answers.

Early emergence. Learn how to organize your work. Better yet, at the end of the day, ask how to schedule work for tomorrow.

Observe how experienced people in your industry organize their work.

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